If you’ve ever wondered why a bain-marie (or water bath) is so important for delicate desserts—or what actually happens when you skip it—this is the deep dive for you.
In this comprehensive guide, we’ll go beyond the basics and explore everything you need to know about bain-maries: how they work, how to set them up (both oven and stovetop), common mistakes to avoid, and the science behind silky-smooth custards.
What Is a Bain Marie and Why Use It?
A bain marie (pronounced bane mah-REE), or water bath, is a technique where a dish of food is cooked by placing it in a larger container of hot water.
In baking, this means setting your custard dish or ramekins into a pan of water while it bakes. The hot water surrounds the custard with gentle, uniform heat, almost like giving your dessert a warm bath as it cooks.
This method is especially useful for custards and other delicate, egg-based desserts (such as flan, crème brûlée, bread pudding, and cheesecakes). Baking custards in a water bath keeps the temperature low and even, preventing the eggs from overcoagulating (over-cooking).
In other words, the bain marie protects the custard from direct oven heat, so it won’t curdle (turn lumpy) or crack on top. The result is a silky-smooth, creamy custard that cooks evenly from edges to center without drying out or forming rubbery spots.
Setting Up a Bain Marie in the Oven (Traditional Method)
In an oven bain-marie, custard dishes (like individual ramekins or a baking dish) are placed in a larger pan partially filled with water. The water bath creates a moist, steamy environment in the oven that helps the custard cook slowly and evenly.
This gentle baking method is the “insurance policy” that ensures your custard will set softly without cracking or curdling.
Follow these steps to bake custards using a traditional bain marie:
Preheat the Oven
Begin by preheating your oven to the temperature your recipe specifies (custard recipes typically bake at 300–325°F (150–160°C) for gentle cooking). Adjust the oven rack to the middle position for even heat circulation.
Prepare the Custard and Ramekins
Mix your custard ingredients according to the recipe (usually milk or cream, eggs, sugar, flavorings). Pour the custard mixture into individual ramekins (small ceramic custard cups) or into a larger baking dish, as directed.
If using ramekins, place them in a deep roasting pan or baking dish with high sides. For extra stability, you can lay a clean kitchen towel on the bottom of the roasting pan and set the ramekins on it – this keeps them from sliding and also insulates the bottoms from direct heat.
Heat the Water
Bring a kettle or pot of water to a boil, then let it cool just slightly (you want it very hot but not vigorously boiling by the time it goes in the oven). Using hot water is important – don’t use cold or tap-hot water.
Boiling water ensures the bath is already up to temperature, so the custards begin cooking gently right away instead of slowly heating up (which could cause uneven cooking).
Set Up the Water Bath
Place the roasting pan (with the filled ramekins or custard dish inside) on the oven rack. Carefully pour the hot water into the roasting pan around the custard dishes.
Add enough water to reach about halfway up the sides of the ramekins or baking dish. Make sure not to splash water into the custard itself. The custard dishes will displace some water, so pour slowly.
The water level should ideally come up to the same level as the custard inside the ramekins for best insulation, but never so high that water could spill into the cups.
Optional – Cover if Needed
If your recipe calls for it, you can tent a piece of aluminum foil over the top of the roasting pan (not tightly, just loosely covering). Covering the bain marie can trap steam and prevent the tops of the custards from browning or drying out.
Many baked custard recipes (like flan or crème caramel) don’t require a cover, but something like a cheesecake might be covered for part of the baking.
If you do cover, leave a little gap for steam to escape to avoid water buildup under the foil.
Slide the pan (with the water and custards) fully into the oven and bake for the time indicated in your recipe. Avoid opening the oven door too often, as this can lower the temperature and disturb the water bath.
The water should not boil in the oven; it should stay around simmering temperature. The gentle heat of the bain marie will cook the custards slowly and evenly. You’ll notice the custards start to set around the edges first.
Check for Doneness
Begin checking the custards a bit before the suggested baking time is up, since exact timing can vary.
How to tell if the custard is done?
Look for signs that the custard has set around the edges but is slightly wobbly (jiggly) in the center when you nudge the ramekin or pan. A slight jiggle in the middle is perfect – the custard will continue to firm up as it cools.
You can also do the knife test: insert a thin knife about an inch from the center (or into the center for a smaller custard cup) – if it comes out clean, or with just a bit of silky custard (not liquidy), then it’s done.
Do not let the custards bake until they are completely solid in the center; that means they’re overcooked (overbaking can make the custard curdled or rubbery).
For a very precise measure, an instant-read thermometer inserted in the center should read around 170–175°F (77–80°C) for a perfectly cooked baked custard, but this is optional.
How To Remove from the Oven Safely
When the custards are done, use caution removing the hot water bath from the oven. It’s best to pull the oven rack out partway and then carefully lift each ramekin out of the water bath while it’s still on the rack, if possible.
You can use tongs or a thick oven mitt to grasp the ramekins (be careful not to splash water). Another trick is to use a wide spatula to help lift each custard cup out if there’s room.
If you made one large custard dish, handle it gently – you may want to leave it in the water bath until it’s on the counter. Immediately remove the custard cups from the hot water – don’t let them sit soaking in the bain marie as it cools, or they could continue cooking from residual heat.
Cool the Custards
Finally, Place the hot custard ramekins on a wire rack or towel and let them cool to room temperature. As they cool, the centers will set up a bit more (that jiggly center will smooth out). Once they reach room temp, you can cover them (a layer of plastic wrap over each, or a sheet pan on top of the ramekins) and refrigerate for at least a couple of hours if a chilled custard is desired.
Many custards (like crème brûlée) are best served cold, after chilling, which also helps the texture become ultra-smooth. If serving warm, let them cool just enough to handle safely.
Avoid sudden temperature changes (for example, don’t go straight from oven to fridge) – that can shock the custard and sometimes cause cracks to form on top as it contracts.
Your baked custards should now be silky and smooth. By using the bain marie, you’ve ensured even, gentle cooking. All that’s left is to enjoy your dessert!
Setting Up a Bain Marie on the Stovetop (Double Boiler Method)
On the stovetop, a bain marie often refers to a double boiler setup. This is when you cook something delicate over hot water rather than in the direct heat of a pan. It’s commonly used for custard sauces (like crème anglaise), stirred custards, or for melting chocolate, and it works great for cooking a custard gently without an oven. The steam from the simmering water heats the upper pot or bowl in a controlled, gentle way, so your custard thickens slowly and doesn’t scramble.
You can buy a dedicated double boiler, but it’s easy to improvise one with ordinary kitchen items. All you need is a saucepan and a heatproof bowl (or a slightly smaller pan) that can sit on top of the saucepan.
Follow these steps to set up a stovetop bain marie (double boiler):
Heat the Bottom Pot of Water
Fill a saucepan with a few inches of water (about 1/4 to 1/3 full is usually fine). Choose a saucepan wide enough to support your top bowl without it touching the bottom. Place the saucepan on the stove and heat the water to a simmer.
You want the water simmering, not rapidly boiling – small bubbles and steam, around simmering temperature (about simmering but below a full boil).
Why not boiling? Because boiling water could splash or the high heat could curdle the custard; gentle steam heat is what we’re after.
Set the Top Bowl (or Pot) Over the Water
Place your heatproof bowl or a snug-fitting smaller pot on top of the saucepan. The bottom of this upper bowl should hover above the water, not touching it, if possible. The steam will rise and warm the bowl. If the bottom of the bowl touches the water, it’s usually okay as long as the water is just simmering, but ideally there’s a gap so that only steam is transferring heat.
The setup should be stable; the bowl should sit securely without you having to hold it.
Add the Custard Ingredients to the Top Bowl
Stirred custards (like a custard sauce or lemon curd) are typically made by heating the mixture in the bowl while stirring. For example, you might pour milk and sugar into the top bowl, heat it, and separately whisk egg yolks with sugar, then temper them in (add hot liquid slowly to eggs) – whatever your recipe directs.
If you are cooking a custard base (like for ice cream or crème anglaise), you would combine the ingredients in the top bowl. In some cases, you might be cooking a custard mixture directly (like a thin pudding) by continuously stirring it over the double boiler. The key is that the heat from the steam will cook the eggs gradually, reducing the risk of scrambling them.
Stir Constantly and Cook Gently
Use a whisk at first to keep everything moving, especially if you’re starting with raw eggs in the mixture. As the custard warms up, stir or whisk continuously (or as directed) to prevent any one area from overheating. Do not let the upper bowl get so hot that the mixture boils.
For many stovetop custards, you actually never want to reach boiling – for instance, a classic vanilla custard sauce should be cooked until it thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon, but never brought to a full boil, or it may curdle. Keep the stove heat on low to medium-low to maintain a gentle simmer in the bottom pot. Patience is key here: the custard will thicken slowly but surely. This slow cooking is exactly what prevents lumps and curds.
Check for Doneness
Stovetop custards often don’t “set” firm; instead, you’re looking for a certain thickness or temperature. A common test is to coat the back of a spoon: dip a spoon in the custard and run your finger across the back of the spoon – if the line stays clean and the custard doesn’t run back into it, it’s ready.
Another sign: the mixture will visibly thicken and cling to your spatula or whisk. You may also use a thermometer if you have one; many egg-thickened custards are done around 170°F (77°C) but do refer to your recipe. Once it’s reached the desired thickness, remove the top bowl from the heat.
Cool and Serve
If your stovetop custard needs chilling (for example, a pie filling or ice cream base), pour it through a strainer into a clean bowl to catch any tiny cooked egg bits (straining makes it extra smooth). Then let it cool.
You can speed this by setting that bowl into an ice bath (another kind of water bath, but cold!). If it’s a sauce to be served warm, you’re ready to go after a slight cooling. For a stovetop steamed pudding or custard that was cooked covered (less common, but for instance some cultures steam custards in a bowl over water), carefully uncover and check that it’s set. Always be cautious of steam when removing the lid of a hot double boiler or steamer.
Using a bain marie on the stovetop is very forgiving. By avoiding direct flame under the custard, you eliminate hot spots and reduce the risk of burning or scrambling the eggs. It’s a great method for recipes like hollandaise sauce, zabaglione, or custard-based sauces and fillings. Just keep the heat gentle and keep stirring, and you’ll have a smooth result.
Key Tips for Even Cooking and Avoiding Curdling/Cracking
Always use a water bath for baked custards
If a recipe suggests a bain marie or water bath, don’t skip it. The water bath creates a protective moist heat that keeps custards from overheating. Without it, the edges of your custard will cook way faster than the center, often leading to a cracked top or a curdled (grainy) texture as the eggs overcook.
Keep Water Level Consistent
Make sure the water comes about halfway up the sides of your custard dish or ramekins, and don’t let it get too low during baking. Insufficient water is a common cause of custards curdling at the edges.
If you’re baking for a long time (or at high altitude where water may evaporate faster, check periodically and top up with a bit of hot water if needed. The water level should remain high enough to shield the custard from direct heat.
Avoid Boiling the Custard
Whether in the oven or stovetop, keep the custard below boiling. In the oven, the water bath usually prevents the custard from exceeding 100°C (212°F) since water won’t get hotter than that. On the stove, don’t crank the heat up too much.
Stirred custards should never be allowed to come to a full boil – they can curdle in an instant. Gentle simmer or just steam-heat is ideal.
Slow Cooling to Prevent Cracks
Sudden changes in temperature can sometimes cause a custard (especially larger ones like cheesecake) to crack. Let your baked custard cool gradually. For example, you might turn off the oven, crack the door, and let a cheesecake sit in the water bath for 15–30 minutes to cool slowly.
Or at least, once out of the oven, don’t put it straight into the fridge. Cooling on a rack to room temp before refrigeration is best. This gentle cooling helps avoid the surface tension cracks that can happen if a hot custard meets cold air.
Don’t Overmix or Incorporate Air
When preparing the custard mixture, mix until just smooth. Avoid whipping a lot of air into it, which can create bubbles that lead to an odd texture or a foamy layer on top.
If you do see a lot of foam on your custard mixture, you can skim it off before pouring into ramekins. A water bath will also help mitigate overly airy custards by cooking them gently, but it’s best to start with a good mixture.
By following these tips, you’ll ensure your custards cook evenly and gently, yielding a dessert that’s smooth and creamy throughout.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Skipping the Water Bath
Skipping the water bath is a common mistake that almost guarantees problems with custards and cheesecakes. Without the water's insulation, custards often curdle at the edges or crack on top due to the harsher heat, making the water bath crucial for delicate bakes.
Using Insufficient Water
Not using enough water in your bain marie defeats its purpose, as the water should come at least halfway up the sides of the custard dish. If you only put a little water or let it evaporate without replenishing, the custard sides will overheat, resulting in a baked custard that's rubbery around the outside.
Careless Water Pouring
Be very careful when pouring hot water into the roasting pan to avoid splashing water into your custards, which can ruin their texture or burn you. Always pour slowly, preferably adding water before the pan is fully in the oven, and when removing the water bath, don't slosh it—plan ahead to move the pan safely or ladle some water out first.
Starting With Insufficiently Hot Water
Using merely hot tap water or cold water for your bath is a mistake because it will take too long to heat up, exposing your custard to uneven heating. Always use boiling or near-boiling water for the bath to ensure the custard begins cooking in a stable environment.
Using Excessive Oven Temperature
Baking at too high a temperature can cause the custard to puff up, then collapse and crack, or develop a grainy texture as the eggs overcook. Stick to the recommended temperature or err on the side of slightly lower and cook a little longer, as a slow bake prevents curdling.
Baking Past the Proper Doneness
It's easy to overbake custard if you expect it to be completely firm when you take it out, only to discover upon cooling that it's overdone. Avoid this mistake by using visual cues like a slight jiggle in center or the knife test, as it's safer to slightly undercook than overcook.
Improper Springform Pan Preparation
When baking cheesecakes or custards in a springform pan with a water bath, a common error is not sealing the pan, which can let water seep into your cheesecake. Always wrap the bottom of a springform pan in layers of heavy-duty aluminum foil to keep water out, or use a silicone waterproof pan sleeve.
Leaving Custard in the Water Bath Too Long
Once your custard is done, don't leave it sitting in the hot water bath for too long as the heat from the water will continue to cook the custard. Unless your recipe explicitly says to cool in the water, it's generally better to get those ramekins out of the hot water shortly after coming out of the oven.
Skipping the Straining Step
If your custard mix has lumps or a lot of foam, failing to strain or skim can result in a less-than-perfect texture or bubble spots on the finished custard. Pour your mix through a fine sieve into the baking cups to catch any bits of egg or foam for the smoothest custard.
Failing to Temper Eggs
If you're making a custard on the stove and add egg yolks directly into hot milk, you'll end up with scrambled bits. Always slowly whisk a bit of the hot mixture into the eggs first, then combine, as this small step makes a huge difference in avoiding curdled custard.
Take it slow and gentle, and your custards will reward you with perfect texture and taste.
Recommended Tools and Bakeware
Making a bain marie setup is simple and doesn’t require specialized gadgets, but a few tools will make the process easier:
- Ramekins or Baking Dish: These are the containers for your custard. Ramekins (typically 4 to 8 ounce ceramic cups) are ideal for individual custards like crème brûlée. They conduct heat evenly and look nice for serving. You can also use oven-safe glass or ceramic custard cups or even one larger dish (like a Pyrex or ceramic casserole) for a family-style custard. Just keep in mind, larger dishes take longer to cook. Ensure whatever dish you use is heatproof.
- Roasting Pan or Deep Baking Pan: You’ll need a larger pan to act as the water bath container. Choose one with high sides that can comfortably fit your ramekins or smaller dish inside with room for water. A deep roasting pan, a 9x13 baking pan, or even a large oven-safe skillet can work. It should be at least as tall as the height of the water you’ll pour (so roughly 2 inches or more). If you plan to cover it with foil, make sure it’s big enough that foil won’t touch the custard tops.
- Tea Towel or Silicone Baking Mat: Lining the base of your roasting pan with a folded kitchen towel or a silicone mat is a great trick. It keeps the ramekins from sliding around and also provides a bit of insulation from direct heat. This is optional but recommended, especially if you’re using glass or ceramic dishes which can be slippery against the metal pan.
- Kettle or Large Measuring Cup: A kettle for boiling water is very handy for filling the bain marie. It allows you to pour hot water easily into the narrow space between dishes. A large heatproof glass measuring jug with a spout can also do the job, giving you control as you pour. It’s all about safely handling the hot water.
- Aluminum Foil: Heavy-duty foil is useful for a couple of reasons. First, as mentioned, to wrap springform pans to prevent leaks. Second, a sheet of foil can be used to loosely cover the entire water bath pan if you need to trap steam and heat (or shield the custards from top heat to prevent browning). It’s good to have on hand, though not always needed.
- Tongs or Slotted Spoon: When the custards are done, you’ll need to get them out of the hot water. Kitchen tongs with a good grip (silicone-tipped tongs work well on ramekins) are great for lifting out individual cups safely. You can also use a long-handled slotted spoon or spatula to assist. This prevents you from having to stick your hand near the hot water. Just be gentle and secure so you don’t tip the custards.
- Cooling Rack: A wire cooling rack is useful for setting the hot ramekins on once they come out of the oven. It allows air to circulate and cool them evenly. If you don’t have one, a trivet or even a towel on the counter works – just something to protect your countertop from heat and to let the custards cool without water underneath.
- Instant-Read Thermometer (Optional): While not strictly necessary for a beginner, a kitchen thermometer can be a helpful tool if you want to nail the perfect doneness. As noted, custards set around 170°F. If you’re unsure, you can tilt a ramekin and insert a thermometer into the center to check (egg custard is safe and set at around 75–80°C). But again, the jiggle test usually suffices. Still, it’s a recommended tool if you plan on doing a lot of custard or want confidence in temperature.
- Heatproof Mixing Bowl (for Stovetop Method): If you plan to use the bain marie on the stovetop, ensure you have a bowl that’s heatproof (glass/Pyrex or metal) to serve as your upper bowl in a double boiler. Alternatively, a specific double boiler insert or a second smaller saucepan that fits into a larger one can be used. The fit should be snug but without the bottom touching the base of the lower pan if possible.
- Whisk and Silicone Spatula: For stirred custards on the stove, a whisk is essential to keep the mixture moving and smooth initially, and a spatula is great for scraping the sides and bottom of the bowl as it thickens. These help ensure even cooking and no sticking.
- Fine-Mesh Sieve: As mentioned in tips, a sieve is useful for straining custard mixtures or even straining finished sauces to catch any lumps. It ensures a professional-level smooth texture.
With these basic tools and equipment, you’ll be well-prepared to tackle any custard recipe using a bain marie. The good news is you probably already have most of these items in your kitchen.
Using a bain marie might sound fancy, but it’s really just smart use of everyday cookware to create the perfect gentle cooking environment. Happy baking, and enjoy your perfectly cooked custards!
